An amazing place, a must see if you haven't visited it already!. All in all we were surprised that when we reached Kathmandu, although the expected hustle and bustle of cars, bikes cows etc was there, there wasn't as many tourists as we expected, especially of the hippy or trustafarian variety. The tourists that were here tended to be well healed middle aged Europeans... a bit like ourselves AHEM!.
On talking to people we discovered this was largely due to the earthquake and most recently the fuel crisis. For those that don't know, the cause of the fuel crisis is ( as we understand it so do correct if we have this wrong) due to one, more or a combination of all of the following:
- There is land near the Indian border that is prime for agriculture (given Nepal is quite mountainous this is where the majority of their produce is grown) The people in this area want to become independent of Nepal and India are backing them (for their own gain), to the point of closing the border and not letting any trade through, , part of which is fuel!.Nepal is landlocked and heavily reliant on trade!. They have looked to trade through China (which sent India into a real sulk) but too expensive! So basically India have a strangle hold on Nepal with no sign of this being resolved any time soon!. What were once open borders for Nepalese/Indians to cross as they wished are now closed!. One of the immediate impacts is that it is putting off tourists (primary Nepal income) due to costs going up due to lack of Fuel. India say its not them but those folks who are in the flat bit of land not letting it through, with us so far?
- They've pissed India off as they have just moved to a communist government with around a 92% majority vote (the other 8% are in that flat piece of land being supported by India). We could better understand the majority vote when we learnt that despite the significant donations given to Nepal by other countries, the only assistance each household got who's homes were devastated by the earthquake was a sack of rice and the equivalent of about 90 pounds!.
- The new legislation brought in is that to be in parliament (corrupt, 2yr service that you buy your way into, pillage and then sell on) you must have 2 Nepalese parents which is stopping anyone in India securing a seat!.
Reality is that it shouldn't put off tourists, instead we should be coming here now in our droves to show our support for these wonderful people!. Its added around 100 dollars to an already cheap hiking trip and the menus are not as extensive as they would otherwise be (cooking on firewood instead of gas). So come to Nepal and show your support whilst having an amazing time!.
Memorable moments:
- No Mosquito! Well 3 bites only (S not G!)
- Having to hold Glenns hand whist he had a pedicure as he was in fear of being molested again (For those in the know, talking about Vietnam massage gate!)
- Wonderful temples and shrines, all worth the climb!
- Pokhara - must visit even if you arent trekking, pretty and gets you away from the pollution!
- The Trek!: Snow capped mountains, stunning waterfalls and streams and meeting new friends around the fire whilst drying smelly socks and preparing for the next days adventure
- Hot springs! take a once piece girls! learn by my mistakes, felt like a peep show!
- Getting to the top of Poon Hill!, we thought the worse was over....it wasnt!
- Glenns headbaning with Nepalese Slash
- Mo Mo's: Street food which is a steamed dumpling (bit like Dim Sum). 2 choices, veg, non veg. served in a cardboard bowl with a toothpick and covered in hot sauce, delicious!
- The Falaf & Chick stall, best Falafal in Nepal. Be careful if you get spicy, you will know it in the morning!
- Electricity, when it worked! run around like madmen charging everything!
- Spotting the first Rhino, yay we didnt waist our money!
Top Tips
- The airport, a combination of being pushy (way in) and having a lot of patience in very long queues (way out).take the equivalent of a cup of coffee to the airport and change the rest before, nothing to buy and nothing you would want to eat!
- Come with a half or empty bag, lots of great stuff to buy and a good 1st stop to get all of your travel clothes and bags cheap!
- As its so quiet in some of the places (Chitwan was at 5% of its normal capacity, Kathmandu at 65%) it would be safe but tougher for a female traveller as difficult to meet up with groups etc so travel in pairs.
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