Varanasi – Funeral Pyres & Sunset Aart

Day 1

We arrived in Varanasi around 7.00am and were met outside our train carriage by our driver and then taken to our hotel.  The driver then proceeded to sell us two trips one for the evening Aarti ceremony at one of the Ghats along the Ganges and to see the funeral pyres.  The other one to see the morning ceremony followed by a boat trip along the Ganges.

As we were knackered from our overnight train journey we had some breakfast and then chilled out in our room until our afternoon trip was due to start.

Our driver picked us up at 3.00 and took us into the main town getting stuck in unbelievable bottlenecks (they don’t have roundabouts or traffic lights). It was quite amusing to see some drivers that had given up on the road we were on and instead deciding it was a better option to drive down the other side of the road going the wrong way, then getting into massive arguments with people getting stuck coming in the opposite direction.

Parking up we were then led at a very hard pace through loads of backstreets which were very colourful and interesting, however we did not really get a chance to have a good look for fear we would lose our guide who was on a mission. 

Eventually we stopped and were handed over to a holy man who then led us down to the funeral pyres,  I don’t think we were prepared about how up close and personal we were going to get to this area.  Suddenly we were confronted with around 6 – 10 burning pyres with bodies in various stages of getting consumed by the fire, the closest of which looked as though had only recently been started so that you could see the face and head clearly burning (Shell said she is going to have nightmares about this).  An interesting fact is they use special wood for the pyres which give off a scent when burning that masks the smell of burning flesh.  There were also loads of bodies on wooden stretchers either covered or uncovered which were lined up waiting to be burnt. We were told that they burn up to 350 bodies a day here!.  Both Shell and I felt uncomfortable as we felt this should be a private area and it felt like we were intruding on something very personal and we shouldn’t be there (obviously there are no photo’s of this area!). Once burned the relatives can then scatter the remnants into the Ganges.

Another interesting fact is not all the people that die are burnt, if you are a child under 18, a pregnant mother, had died of a snake bite or a Sadu you were taken to the centre of the river and sank with rocks.  Also which is quite weird, if you die of leprosy you have had bad karma in your life so are not deemed as worthy to be burned, so again you were sunk in the middle of the river with the innocents – which again seems like baffling logic to me (Leprosy is deemed bad yet all other diseases are not???)

As we were going we got the big sell (naturally), apparently the holy man looked after all the dying poor people housed in the three dilapidated buildings around the site, who did not have any relatives that could pay for the wood to burn them so he is responsible for doing this.  The wood they use is very expensive at £5 a kilo and it generally takes 25 – 30 kilos of wood to burn a body therefore he would like a donation from us as it would be ‘Good Karma’.  Once I gave him the equivalent of £5 he went on to say most visitors paid for 5 kilos of wood to which we responded we do not have that money to give, he then went to Shell asking her for a donation too and after Shell tried to explain it was both our money and a long discussion where Shell actually found a couple of small Rupee notes in her bag and gave these over to him we were then taken back to where our driver was waiting.

I must say that this was an interesting experience however it was also quite disturbing which would probably been better if we had witnessed it at a distance!

Trying to get these images from our heads we were then driven to one of the Ghats along the river to watch the evening ceremony.  We appeared to arrive too early as we had about an 1 ¼ hour wait until it began.  So we decided to have a wander around the site but this was a bad idea as it was like a fairground with people trying to sell us all sorts of tat (including glow in the dark toys & candy floss!) and other people being nice and saying hello, then their friendly handshake being changed into a hand massage which they want paying for (A den of vipers!!).  We got bored of that very quickly (especially me reaching boiling point) so we found a quiet corner on the edge to escape this circus!

When it did eventually begin there was some backing music and around 6-7 young guys dressed in traditional costumes took their positions on podiums in front of the Ganges and began to sing and prey (reminded me a bit of a boy-band), whilst spinning and turning with various religious artifacts (Lit candelabras, incense smoking pots, metal cobra’s with flames, etc.).  It went on for around about 45 minutes and to me it just seemed like another cultural show (you know how much I enjoy these!!) me being neither religious or ‘Spiritual’!!  (And I have to do it all again tomorrow at 5.00am – can’t wait), even Shell said it was not as good or atmospheric as the last one she saw when she was in Varanasi 12 years ago.

After all that excitement we were then taken back in the direction of our hotel, but we asked the driver to drop us off at a good restaurant on the way home, which he duly did.  It was down a side alley and it was one we would never have found ourselves.  The food was good if a little overpriced, I’m guessing we also paid for a driver’s commission for taking us there.

We then returned home for a early night as once again we had to be up early for the next mornings trip.  (Shell is hoping not to have nightmares about dead people!).

Day 2 – Sunrise Aarti & Boat Trip

Up with the larks and wrapped up in hats, scarves and gloves (its really cold mornings & evenings) we met our driver in reception. I quite liked him, he actually spoke to me!.

We made our way to a different Ghat to watch the sunrise ceremony. This one I’m glad to say was much more tasteful, there was still the same  boy bandish group of lads/holy men  dressed up in their finery but rather than tinny music blasted out over a tanoy, they were accompanied by a group of girls OMing and chanting which really made it special. No big crowds, candy floss sellers or massage mafia meant we could watch the rituals without being disturbed as the sun rose over the Ganges. NICE!

Following the ceremony there was some classical Indian music which to my surprise I really liked but the driver was keen to get us away and into a boat so after a brief stop for some Chai (5p a cup) we went back to the original Ghat to board our boat.

My expectations for the boat trip were not high but we both thoroughly enjoyed it, you got a great perspective of the Ghats, the different colours, people and were able to take lots of snaps from a respectable distance of people going about their daily business which you wouldn’t be able to do on land.

We went past a bathing Ghat, a Laundry Ghat (glad I hand washed my draws!) and then to the Cremation Ghat where we asked to stay at a respectable distance.  All in all I think the trip was about 45 mins, well worth it and a top tip if you ever visit!. (costs about £2 each for your own boat)

The previous day the driver was very keen to take us to a silk making factory where he said it housed 20,000 workers!. Not keen on witnessing a sweat shop we just did an Indian head shake (side to side) non commitment thing!, I did however say that we (me not Glenn) wanted to practice some Yoga, especially as Varanasi is the heart of Yoga, plus the guy who sold us the trip had recommended it. Id asked him 3 times the day before and he begrudgingly said he would sort it out but alas it never materialised and I got fed-up asking so Glenn’s lucky escape… until Thailand!. So after another hard sell on the silk factory and us refusing we were dropped off at our hotel at 9AM for breakfast.

Both knackered from the bad night’s sleep on the train and early starts, we felt we deserved a day doing absolutely nothing so we spent the rest of the day sorting out Visa’s, airport transfers, hotels and chilling!j.  A quick cut throat shave for Glenn  (equiv of £1.00 with massage and lotions) so people would stop thinking he was my sugar daddy,  and dinner at the hotel then early to bed for our flight to Mumbai.

I must say, Varanasi has changed dramatically since I was last here, the ceremonies were okay but its an overcrowded filthy place where you will be constantly hassled so not for the faint hearted!.

 Indian Trains!

I like to think that I’m not too high maintenance and can tolerate pretty rough conditions but I must admit the trains in India got the better of me!. I travelled on a sleeper train years back in India so knew what to expect so I don’t know if my tolerance has dropped or my need for clean and comfortable surroundings has increased but after our last Journey from Agra to Varanasi I threw the towel in!

We’ve been on one return journey to Amritsar – 20hrs (should have taken 16) and then to Varanasi 10hrs (should have taken 8) with this last journey being the worse!.

It was an overnight train and whilst the people were very pleasant and friendly, sharing your personal space with 6 other people (a man/woman next to me shared the same bunk!) Snoring, snorting coughing and farting (& that was just the woman). People deciding to sit on the end of your bunk whilst you are in it trying to get to sleep!, Cockroaches running up the walls,  someone stealing Glenn’s pillow and blanket, me arguing with a red eyed attendant (off his tits), trying to get replacements and then there’s the toilet!.

So far id managed to opt for total dehydration on the other trains rather than use the loo’s but on the overnighter I didn’t have much choice. The train had already been going about 7hrs when we joined it so the loo had already been put to good use and humming nicely when we boarded!. Trying to negotiate squatting down, balancing, holding up your trousers so they don’t get soaked in wee, pinching your nose and trying to avoid slipping down the hole is quite an achievement. I didn’t realise until the morning that it’s just a big hole and all the excrement goes directly on the track! By the time morning came you needed water wings to get to the toilet where the floor was so covered!

Arriving in Varanasi I hadn’t had a wink of sleep and knowing that we had a 26 Journey on a train to get to Mumbai/ almost had me in tears! 26 bloody hours, and that’s if it isn’t delayed! So arriving at our hotel I promptly got on the internet and booked 2 flights and binned the train tickets!

2hrs instead of 26hrs and a day of our lives back!, I know it’s not in the spirit of traveling and certainly wasn’t in our budget but for my sanity (and Glenn’s who’s ear I’d be bending) I think it was money well spent!.